Past Work - Teapotty: Copper sheet
Completed teapot | ||||
My initial plan was to "raise" the body of the teapot by beating copper sheet with mallets. Then it was pointed out to me that the College had a hydraulic press, pictured, which held out the promise of being able to create a lovely smooth surface in a twinkling of an eye - or at least, that's what I conjectured. It struck me that I could use the same setup to create other teapots - the lead one I had in mind and possibly another tea one. With the tea one, I knew the Chinese used to compress tea-leaves into "bricks" to store it so I thought a 60 ton hydraulic press might enable me to make a teapot from tea-leaves that was almost ceramic in nature. | ||||
The flip-side of using a lot of force is that the moulds have to be ultra-strong. I devised quite a complicated way of making the moulds starting with welding some steel boxes (pictured) and then filling them with reinforced concrete lined with about 20-mm of "Epoxacast", an expoxy resin containing aluminium powder, designed for this kind of use. (It was expensive - hence my use of concrete). | ||||
Making the moulds was laborious (it took about a month) and expensive (about £200) but this was the end result - a 2 part mould for each half of the teapot. | ||||
I experimented with 1.5-mm-thick copper sheet with the result pictured, after several cycles of annealing, beating wrinkles flat and further pressing. As a consequence, I decided to use thinner copper, 0.75-mm, and make the handle separately. | ||||
Another consequence was the (6-mm-thick) top plate of the mould buckled ... | ||||
... so I made much stronger replacements. | ||||
I used a strip of metal and the bottom mould to make the 2 halves of the handle, using a manual hydraulic press. | ||||
Pressing needs quite a few cycles of annealing and trimming of excess material. It also pays to increase the force slowly so the metal can "flow" internally; quite a few of my attempts tore the copper sheet. | ||||
I bent a strip of metal to go inside the handle so that I could use wire rivets to hold the 2 halves together. I wanted the teapot to look like an old-fashioned boiler with butted joints and double rows of closely spaced wire rivets. | ||||
I cut strips of copper so that I could create the same effect where I
joined the 2 halves of the body of the teapot, this time using copper
pop rivets. | ||||
Going clockwise from the top left:
| |